After six long years, the Mountaineers’ Association returned to the high Himalayas this August, sending a 25-member team to scale the formidable Unam peak (6,111 metres) in Himachal Pradesh’s remote Lahaul-Spiti region. What unfolded was a tale of grit, altitude sickness, triumph—and an arduous return through landslide-ravaged roads.
The expedition began on 8 August, with the team leaving Kolkata by train for Chandigarh before embarking on the rugged road journey to Manali. Heavy rains forced them to change buses three times—from Chandigarh to Mandi, onward to Kullu, and finally into Manali. Lugging 24 heavy rucksacks packed with climbing gear, tents, and supplies through multiple bus changes was an expedition in itself.
“Over four decades of mountaineering, I have rarely seen such a chaotic approach journey,” said one veteran climber. “Even reaching Manali felt like a battle won.”
At 6,726 feet, Manali served as the base for two nights of acclimatisation. The weather was fickle—rain and clouds breaking through brief spells of clear skies. Yet, the team pressed on with preparations, before setting off in two tempo travellers on 12 August.
The road ahead was dizzying. Manali to Bharatpur (15,420 feet) meant an ascent of nearly 8,700 feet in a single day. The route, once over Rohtang Pass, now passes through the 9-km-long Atal Tunnel, one of the longest high-altitude road tunnels in the world. The sharp altitude gain left many members struggling with nausea and headaches.
“Everyone was warned,” recalled expedition manager Subrata Banerjee. “We knew altitude sickness was inevitable. That is why we had pre-planned a two-night halt at Bharatpur.”
From Bharatpur, the climbers ferried loads to the base camp. Despite illness, members including deputy leader Amiya Mitra, Ajay Debnath, Soum Jyoti Seal, and NIMAS instructor Saurav Rajak established the camp on 13 August. Two members were evacuated back to Manali due to severe sickness.
By 14 August, the full team had consolidated at base camp, ready for the summit push. Then came the decisive night.
At 12:43 a.m. on 15 August—India’s Independence Day—twelve climbers set off under headlamps, roped together against the icy winds. Hours later, at 9:22 a.m., ten of them stood victorious on the summit of Unam, gazing across the frozen expanse of Lahaul-Spiti.
The successful summiteers included climbing leader Nitai Mondal, deputy leader Mitra, instructor Rajak, and young climbers such as Sayak Mondal and Raunak Dutta. Two others—Amit Das and Bikram Dasgupta, both fresh from a rock-climbing course—had to halt just below the summit, exhausted but elated at their first Himalayan experience.
The triumph was short-lived. On the return journey to Chandigarh, the team was caught in devastating landslides and flash floods that paralysed Himachal’s road network. For nearly 30 hours, the climbers were stranded—without food for 27 hours—while vehicles remained trapped in tunnels and mountain passes. Many spent the night sleeping on roadsides.
With the help of local authorities and medical aid from Dr. Rabikar Pal, the team eventually made it through, exhausted but safe. On 22 August, they boarded the Kalka Mail back to Kolkata, carrying not just the story of a successful summit but also of endurance, resilience, and the unpredictability of the mountains.
“Climbing Unam was hard,” said one member with a weary smile. “But the descent through nature’s fury was even harder. This was not just a mountaineering expedition—it was a reminder of how small we are before the Himalayas.”
